Itsuraku

Oden is a dish visitors single out at Itsuraku. One diner who ordered pork trotter and oysters separately noted that, although both were served in the same dashi-based broth, each had a distinct flavour. They enjoyed them with mustard and yuzu pepper, and found some less usual choices alongside the classics.

Another visitor wrote that they enjoyed the dashi in the oden, sashimi and gratin. It sounds like a good place to try a few small plates, with oden at the centre of the meal. One account of a solo visit to the counter describes pairing Sapporo draft beer with striped jack sashimi. The diner also felt that the many daily recommendations might make the menu appealing in different seasons.

The menu includes salt-grilled tataki-style Kyoto Red Chicken thigh, salt-grilled chicken wings and simmered chicken liver. Seared chicken tenderloin is available on its own, or with grated daikon and ponzu or mentaiko mayonnaise. Fried options include deep-fried tilefish and chicken tenderloin fried with plum and shiso. You can build a meal around chicken, or add fish and other small plates to fill the table.

For vegetables, consider steamed-roasted Manganji peppers, lotus root, yam or asparagus. To finish, there is chicken rice porridge, ochazuke, rice topped with raw egg, and udon. That makes it easy to tailor the meal to your appetite, whether you are stopping in for a light drink or settling down to eat.

The drinks list includes sake, shochu, wine, fruit liqueurs and beer. One visitor’s account describes dining alone at the counter; seating is also available at tables. It works for a meal shared over several plates, or an evening spent choosing food and drinks at your own pace.